Sharing My Zeal
I was nineteen, a young American living in Paris, supposedly living my dream. Yet what was my fantasy?
I daydreamed about traveling in the Middle East. So, after a year of discovering that France was not for me, I took a bus from Paris to Athens and a boat from Athens to Haifa. Soon, I was walking the cobblestone alleys of the Muslim Quarter in Jerusalem.
My twenty-year old self wrote in a letter to my family (dated 21 October, 1986) about my first visit to Jerusalem:
I just had a morning I’ll never forget. I went to the Arab market inside the Old City of Jerusalem. . . Coming here is like stepping onto another planet. The ancient walls of the Old City–I don’t have the words to describe them–at night, they’re lit up. It’s breathtaking. . . . Inside, the Arab quarter is a huge maze of tiny streets, winding alleys and stone courtyards. I love walking these streets. . . . Everything is new here: the smells, the food, the climate, the people, the sights. . .
After two years spent exploring Palestine, as well as traveling to Egypt, Jordan and Iraq, I returned to my home in Bellingham, Washington. My fate was sealed because with me was my new Palestinian husband, whom I had met in Bethlehem and married in Jerusalem.
Newly arrived in the US, we had big goals. We needed to finish university, start our lives, establish our careers and begin a family. But first–he had to learn English.
Now flash forward to the present. It’s 2011. We’re raising our three children (ages 15, 12 and 9). We live in Dubai, where we’ve lived for ten years, striving and struggling to create the bilingual, bicultural family that we had always imagined.
Meanwhile, over the years I’ve asked myself: Who am I? Where do I fit in? At times I’ve become obsessed with cultural identity–my own and everyone else’s. I even wrote a novel exploring those themes.
So, why the blog, you ask?
In my own small way, I hope to bring down barriers between Arabs and non-Arabs. I hope to connect with other writers, readers, expats, foreign spouses and anyone else who shares my zeal for the region. I plan to discuss relevant books and share photos and recipes. Naturally, I’ll blog about Palestine and Dubai, but also Morocco (my current fixation) and other Arabic countries.
However, before I launch into a detailed blog post on the tradition of Palestinian cross-stitch, I’d like to hear from you. Tell me your connection to the region and what you’d like to know. Where do your cultural interests lie?
Please tell me by leaving me a comment below. I look forward to hearing from you.
Bye for now & Salam,
Holly
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So excited to see you in the blogging world my friend!
The blog looks great! Love the first post – it’s so nice to read the details of your story.
I look forward to your future blog posts. Any effort to bridge the gap between Arabs & non-Arabs is always worthwhile. It’s so needed today.
I’m American, I live in France, my husband was born & raised in France, but his father is Palestinian, & several of his relatives are in Lebanon. I think he has a couple of family members in Dubai, as well. One thing I love about our family functions is the way the room is filled with voices speaking French, English or Arabic all during one meal – even if I don’t understand everything that’s being said. 😉
Good to see you blogging!
Dearest Holly,
I cannot stress how blessed and honored I am to have met you in Dubai. You were the source of ‘knowledge’ when I first arrived almost eight years ago. I was the young mother who finally severed her umbilical cord from her family and friends in America. I always enjoyed my beautiful summers in Syria with my grandparents and cousins who assumed I had twenty boyfriends because I was from “Amreeka” I can still smell the falafel shops and the delicious midnight shawarmas. I wanted my children to hold on to their roots. I moved here in hopes to raise my children in an Arab country and to expose them to Arabic culture. Our goal was to have my children read and write Arabic better than me
I will never forget our trip to Oman. After ditching the men we decided to venture out and visit one of the souks. I vividly remember when I told you “Holly, you know you don’t have to pay the full price, you can bargain here.” You were so polite and smiled although I’m sure I was the one that needed teaching! I was trying to make sure that you knew how to bargain Arabic style. Silly me, I just assumed that you wouldn’t ‘know’ how to do this.
I am so proud of your achievements and your great knowledge of everything 3raby..a white girl that knows how to make kunafa, maklooba, Eid pastries, and a killer apple pie. You’ve married the two cultures beautifully.
Dear Holly,
As does all your writing, this blog has already captured my heart. I love its pace; its details; its author. I am thrilled to watch this site grow along with your writing. I just know this is another book in the making because your writing is so good and your story is so fascinating. Once again you are an inspiration for all of us. You really know and love all the things you hope to write about in this blog. I do pity your readers, however, on this one point. Reading about your cooking will not rival eating your cooking. Somerhing I have been fortunate to do many times. I miss you friend. But look forward to this extra way to stay connected to your interesting life. Wishing you love and success, Lainey
I learned about the Middle East the hard way – hitting the ground running, as a correspondent. I knew little about it, but the more I knew, the more I wanted to know. As a reporter, I have been to 21 Arab countries; as a traveler, I keep returning, especially to Jordan. While I now live in Amsterdam, part of my heart will always be in Jordan – and my daughter is half-Jordanian (although she lives in the US). Best of luck with your new blog. Looks like you’re off to a good start!
Holly, Your are a star and it is an honor to know you! I have appreciated you since we began teaching together at DWC in Dubai and I continue to appreciate your stories, FB comments and photos, and above all your insights. I look forward to reading more of you through your blog, and I have forwarded on your link to my good friend (American) who is happily married to a Saudi and living in Saudi Arabia. Thank you for all that you are sharing.
Holly…yours is officially one of my new favorite blogs. What a tremendous story you have and so much wisdom about Arab/non-Arab relations to share. I look forward to hearing it all.
Ever since college when I had a number of dear friends from the UAE, I’ve had a fascination with all things Arab: the food, the figs, the music, the culture, the beauty of the language (written and oral).
Thanks for sharing.
Holly, you know I’ve always been a fan. I’m very happy you started this blog. I’ll be one of your regulars. Ciao, Giovanni
LOVE the blog and can’t wait to read more. Best wishes!
I’m so glad you started this, Holly! I’m subscribing to your rss feed now. 🙂
What a great idea, Holly. Even though I’m in the “USA profonde” (Idaho), I feel that I am living a multicultural life, and I wouldn’t have it any other way. I love being involved in the growing African/Middle Eastern/Latin American community here. I’m definitely going to be reading your blog for your insights on our diverse world.
Hello Everyone!
Thank you for your warm, thoughtful & encouraging comments. Your words mean a lot to me. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I’m feeling inspired!
And for those of you who shared a bit more about yourselves, it’s wonderful to get to know you better. (@Tara – 21 Arab countries? Wow. I’m impressed.)
I wanted to reply to you individually (with nested comments), but that seems to be beyond me at the moment. Lots to learn…
Bye for now & Salam, Holly
I don’t have the cultural intersts that you describe in your blog, but i do like your post very much. I would love to hear more about the transitions you must have made in order to move and rasise your family in another country. I have never left the United States but love to hear about other countries traditions etc…
Congratulations on joining the world of bloggers! It looks lovely. Look forward to reading more…
Hey Holly, I have so many questions about the Middle east! Especially countries like Dubai and Iraq. I’ll limit to just three for now 🙂
-What is a common breakfast? lunch? dinner? snacks?
-What is the traffic system like? Do most people have cars? What are popular models? Do they ride taxis? Drive bicycles?
-What sort of cultural items do you find in the marketplaces? Do they sell more Americanized products like cell phones or Snickers bars?
Thank you
Fab debut blog, Holly!! I’ve always admired you as a writer and I never got to read much of your work, so I’m really looking forward to reading more of your blogs! I know it will be more casual, but that’s good enough for me!
I will be following your blog just to make me feel a bit closer to you! Your insight on Arabic culture and living in a multicultural household has always been true to me as well. I really don’t think you can go wrong with anything you decide to blog about.
Enjoy!
Salaam
-Sariya
Sariya & Zvezdana — Thank you, friends, for your encouraging words.
Beth — Thanks for your comment. I will be writing some posts this week about a few of the challenges of moving our family to Dubai. Stay tuned!
Gabriel — Thanks for the interest. The Arab World is very big with 17 countries. While there are commonalities that tie the region together, there are many variations from country to country. As for Dubai, it’s a modern & wealthy city & quite unique. Dubai has a lot in common with the US–lots of malls & fast food. We also have food from all over the world. We have most American brands here, for example, The Gap and Taco Bell. People tend to drive SUVs. I hope that gives you a picture. I will post something soon about an Arabic breakfast food.
Beautiful idea Holly!! I’m a fan already!
Your second post (hummus!) caught my eye ::::drool::::…. and this post, my heart. I wrote several similar letters home from Jerusalem when I up and moved there in 1998 at the age of 18 (and stayed for two years). It was a peaceful (relative) time to be in Jerusalem and it was magical to me (must say, my love affair with the region was starting to freak out my parents). And your letter gave me a small ache in my chest… how I miss you, Jerusalem. The Old City… those walls, the tiny streets, the food, the sounds, the faces….
And now… married to my Arab husband, two kids, and living in the middle of rural America… I wonder almost daily “what happened?” … what happened to my cute little stone house in the Middle East that I dreamed of back then.
Best of luck! I’ll be reading…
What a wonderful idea for a blog. My path was very similar to yours. I met my Algerian husband in France and then lived in Algeria for 5 years. I’m looking forward to your future posts, but now I must go unravel & cook the merguez in my refrigerator.
@Sara — Thanks for your lovely comment. Jerusalem is my favorite city in the world. I didn’t know you lived there for two years! So, we both share a longing for that gorgeous, tragic, mysterious city.
@Clarissa — Thanks for your comment & for sharing about yourself. I’m now following you on Twitter. We have a lot in common!
Holly, this was a lovely entry. And an interesting blog. I look forward to following you.
Ana ISA
Don’t even get anyone started on the traffic … lol
hi holly…..
i have three kids too, and they are 15, 13 and 10.
I grew up in Lynden WA, so surprised to see you lived in B’ham….
I am in Nagasaki, Japan……..
the blog looks great!!!!
@jan in nagasaki
Jan ~ Thank you for your comment & your kind word about the blog. It’s a small world. Yes, I know Lynden, WA well. And I’ve been to Japan, too. My thoughts are with Japan these days & the situation there–So tragic. The bright side is that the Japanese have amazing coping skills. Thanks again & best wishes to you & your family.
Holly-
This is an excellent blog. First, the look and design of it really work. Second, you have a well-conceived and interesting concept.
My traveling outside the U.S. has mostly been to Europe and Mexico. I am fascinated by the Middle East, though, and concerned about the seemingly intractable problems that seem to plague that part of the world. Your blog is a good idea because I find that Americans (including me) often have a monolithic and simplistic view of the Middle East. I have a friend from Lebanon who provides me new perspectives on that counry and others in the region.
I look forward to reading more.
I found your blog through Multilingual Living’s link to your posts about raising bilingual kiddos (I’m planning on raising my 2 week old son in Spanish/English). While I don’t have any Arab family, I traveled to the Middle East in 1999 and love the Arabic language. I’ve studied it off and on since then, and though I’m far from fluent, I enjoying reading in Arabic (at least kids’ books). I also enjoy reading and learning about Arab culture, and I love to cook. It was great to read your post about hummus; I am definitely guilty of eating it the “American” way!
Holly, love your blog! When I visited Sharjah, I had that same sense of entering an Arab world, more than it feels like in Dubai. Haven’t visited the souk you described yet, but now I know I have to when I return in May. Looking forward to your next entries! Best wishes 🙂
nice post. thanks.
I’ve never been addicted to a blog like this. I came accross your blog yesterday and I think I read every single word on your website already. I love the way you write, It makes the reader feel like they are reading a letter from their sister. Thank you so much for all the information you shared and please never stop.
Hi Holly!
I came across your blog while trying to find a recipe on one of your Pinterest pins. I am so excited to have landed here! I too am married to a Palestinian (newlyweds) and love the Arab culture. I have familiarized myself with a lot of basics by learning from him, of course, but I am very interested in learning more, culture and language. Soon I will travel the Middle East, as I have not just yet. Thanks for the blogs! I look forward to tuning in to learn so much from you.
@ADP So glad you found your way here! I hope this blog is useful for you. You can stay caught up with the blog by following me on Twitter or following Arabic Zeal on Facebook (buttons on right sidebar at top). I’m sure your first trip to the Middle East will be memorable. I wish you all the best. Stay in touch!
Wow, this blog is a pretty awesome find because I am also married to a Palestinian and I’m also from Washington! =) From Longview, it’s by Oregon. As of the last two years I’m living in California. So far I’ve visited Jordan and UAE and hope to visit a lot more middle eastern countries in the future. I converted to Islam in high school and then in college met my hubby through a friend’s hubby, I’m 24 and we’re in our 5th year of marriage now yay. =) Love visiting the middle east, can’t wait for our next visit! I just finished my BA so hopefully will have time to take arabic classes now before we have kids lol. Can’t wait to read more of your blog entries. =)
Hi Amanda, So glad you found my blog. Thanks for telling me about yourself. Please stop by again. All the best, Holly
thanks =) can’t wait for more palestinian food recipes! I love seeing the big smile on my hubby’s face when I try to give him a taste of home =)
Holly,
It’s so inspiring to hear your story. I discovered you via Pinterest, but I will closely follow this blog (and of course, goodreads, I’d love all your book recommendations). I too discovered the Middle East via France. I have always loved French culture and the French language, but I discovered that the “France” I fell in love with… was with its Tunisian and Maghreb culture within which I felt at home. I am currently hoping to become an expat myself, in France or Tunisia it’s not quite clear. I met my fiancé in France, a Tunisian who hopes to live in Paris, but we both hope to travel. Through him and his friends, I also discovered Islam. It has been a spiritual, cultural, and linguistic journey that has changed my life… and haven’t yet set foot in the Middle East or North Africa! Insha’allah, after I start my Master’s in Paris (in ESL) and get married, I will begin my own wonderful pilgrimage. I look forward to reading about your advice and experiences as I shape my own life insha’allah.
Fi amen illeh
@Colleen Thank you so much for the lovely comment and for sharing your story with me. It really means a lot. You have a lot of wonderful adventures ahead of you inshaAllah. Whatever happens, one thing is for sure, the cross-cultural life is never boring. 😉 Best wishes to you, Colleen.
Hi Holly!
I am an American married to a Moroccan living in the US. But, seriously considering moving to Morocco for a long term or permanent stay. I have fallen in love with my husband’s culture and it too has led me to become obsessed with culture and identity. Sometimes I wonder why I am not as interested in my own culture and history as I am in others. I am grateful for 10 years of marriage and entrance into Arabic and Moroccan culture. I would love to read your book! and looking forward to reading your blog!
-Elizabeth
Hi Elizabeth, Thanks for your upbeat comment! It sure is an adventure, isn’t it? Never a dull moment. Thanks for the kind word about the book. It’s not published yet. One day inshaAllah…. BTW, Morocco would be a wonderful place to live. My dream, actually. In the mean time, I hope you stop by again. 🙂
Hello,
I am an American engaged to be married to a Jordanian and I stumbled across your blog. Thanks for posting! (I also have a minor in International Studies with a focus on the Middle East). I just wanted to point out that the word “Arabic” should only be used when describing the language. “Arabian” is used to describe the culture, food, and people. Congratuations on your successful marriage. I hope to follow in your footsteps.
Gina
HI Gina,
Thank you for reading & for the comment. Also, thank you for the language tip. I have always wondered about that… Thanks for stopping by!
Hello,
I just discovered your blog and got immediately caught by what I read in it. I can say I also have a zeal on Arabian culture. I’m from Mexico but travel to Dubai this year during Ramadan. It was a business-leisure trip and you have no idea how much that trip changed my life (or maybe you do have, since you have a zeal). It was like a spiritual retreat for me. It’s like I had discovered so many things about me and the Arabian culture is such a short time. I got so much interest in everything that is Arabian. It is said that travels can be full of magical things and as for me, traveling to the UAE got me in love with so many things: the culture, the Islam, etc.
Since that trip, I have been reading a lot about the UAE: books, newspapers; about the history, about Islam…it’s kind of an obsession lol! but I just love it.
Not many of my friends or family would understand how deeply that trip to the UAE has changed me. I definitely want to go back again (I even would like to get a job there to be able to get to know the culture closer). I will tell you my history one day. Till now I would love to join your blog and be able to share my Arabian zeal with someone like you and your readers…After all, only those of us who have been touch by this amazing culture can understand each other, can’t we? ;-). Greetings from Mexico.
Thank you so much for your lovely comment. I am so happy that this blog brings back good memories to you. I agree, most people can’t grasp the UAE unless they come visit. Thanks again & all the best. Holly
This is inspiring, I have a new obsession now 🙂
This is a culture that is really rich and diverse. I’d love to explore your blog and seeing the things you explored (being Lebanese of Palestinian origins)
Hi Hisham,
Forgive my slow response.
Thank you for reading, for commenting & for your enthusiasm!!
All the best to you, Holly
Nice to hear your story, I would like to write and hear more about your experiences, I am a migrant from UK and live in Australia, my brother who was partly raised in South Africa has been living in UAE for more than 7 years now. He loves it there and my husband and I would like to live there to raise our children away from the. Influences of the western cultures, I really did enjoy my visit. There 2 years ago, and wanted to know how have you found the weather and schooling for expatriates? Sue
HI Sue,
Sorry for my slow reply.
I love the weather in the UAE. For 8 months of the year it’s gorgeous picnic weather. Sometimes (rarely) there is a rain shower or mild sand storm. In the summer it’s very hot and humid. Most people travel at that time. We need to stay indoors–going almost daily to the lovely malls here. When it’s super-hot we do midnight walks on the beach, as it’s too hot the rest of the day.
As for schools, there are every manner of private schools here: British, American, Australian, international, etc… However, they are expensive. You need a good package from your employer to cover tuition. Also, as nice as the schools are, they are still run like a business & therefore, not perfect.
I found it’s very livable in Dubai (and I”ve heard Abu Dhabi as well).
I hope my answer helped you. Holly
Hi, I love your blog. I am very happy to find a blog like this. I love to know about different cultures. I am Egyptian living in saudi arabia.
Welcome, Yasmine. Thanks for reading!!
Dear Holly,
I just discovered this blog as I was searching for some shopping tips at Global Village. Look what I’ve found. I remember you from 2 years ago which was the first time when we had conversation in a flight from London to Dubai as I sat beside you, and we even met again at a common acquaintances’ over dinner. This is a great blog for me as I am loving my stay in Dubai and very much grateful to be in this region. I personally support this kind of blog with aim to bridge the gap in understanding of culture and racial differences for a greater common good values. Love your book review as well, by the way do you still do the book club? Welldone Holly and all the best. Aida
Hi Aida,
Thank you so much for reading & leaving a comment. Of course, I remember you!! 🙂 I hope you are well and enjoying life in Dubai. Yes, I’m still doing a book club. All the best to you!!! I hope we meet again. bye for now, Holly
Dear Holly,
Recently, on National Public Radio, I heard of the book by Pamela Olson, “Fast Times in Palestine” and began to read it. I decided I wanted to make Maqlouba, which she so loved to eat, and looked for a reasonably authentic recipe. Goggle search led me to your website. Thank you!
Thank you for providing recipes, insights, and support for cultural understanding via your website.
Sincerely,
Mitsi Wagner
Cleveland ,Ohio
U.S.A.
Hello, Mitsi,
Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment …. I have read “Fast Times in Palestine” and I think it’s a valuable book, readable & revealing.
Yes, we love maqlouba, too. I hope the recipe works out for you. Thank you again for your kind words. Holly
hello holly. your blog is par excellence. just love every bit of it. as you love Arabian culture, i hope someday you will love and embrace islam in Sha Allah. looking forward formore amazing post
Salaam Daniya! Thank you so much for the comment and the kind words. I really appreciate it. Holly PS I made shahadda in 1996 🙂
Love the recipes and the stories that go with them. I’m also an American married to a Palestinian, from the Ramallah area. We’ve been married for 34 years, have three grown children, and three precious grandchildren.
I am a committed Christian, very active in my church and Bible study, and my husband remains a Muslim. We respect each other’s beliefs and are supportive of each other.
Our middle daughter took 2 years of Arabic at the university and then went ‘back home’ to stay with her grandma for the summer and to take immersion Arabic classes at Birzeit. She and her grandma could not communicate…standard Arabic -v- fellahin! Sad 🙁
Keep up the good work!
HI Lori, Thank you so much for stopping by and leaving the lovely comment. I am so happy to hear about your long marriage to your Palestinian husband. And I understand about the Arabic issues. So challenging!!! Thank you for your kind words and I wish you all the best. Holly
Hi Holly,
I discovered your blog a year or two ago. I loved it then and I love it now! I am so inspired by you and all that you share on here! I have always been interested in other cultures, and have recently become more specifically interested in the Middle East. I am hoping to start learning Arabic soon. 🙂 I was also wondering where I might be able to find a copy of your novel that you mentioned.
Hi Sarah, Thank you for all your kind words & thank you for reading my blog. As for my novel, it’s as yet unpublished, but I’m working on it. 🙂 One day when it’s published, I’ll announce it here. Thanks again.